I’ve never been crazy about lobster rolls. They’re not bad, but I don’t feel the same feverish excitement many New Englanders seem to share (and yes, I’ve had one in Maine). I blame this not on the lobster roll itself, which can be a fine creation if it’s not overloaded with mayonnaise or marred by tough lobster meat, but on my Southern heritage. We like our seafood fried or spicy – preferably both, and lobster rolls can be a bit underwhelming.
Still, when I saw the lobster rolls being dished out at Brooklyn Flea by the good folks of the Red Hook Lobster Pound, I had to have one. These rolls, each being assembled to order, looked so good that I ignored my past apathy (and the somewhat hefty price tag). The dedicated RHLP team trucks in fresh crustaceans from Maine, along with the bread for the sandwiches. They’re at both the Fort Green flea on Saturdays (Lafayette Ave & Claremont Ave) and the Dumbo flea on Sundays (Water Street & New Dock Street), though they do tend to sell out of rolls before the end of the day.
The lobster roll ($13), contains a seriously generous portion of lobster meat, barely slicked with mayo, topped with diced celery, scallions and a light dusting of spices (paprika, I think, though too light to really be sure). The bread, a grilled split-top roll, is the perfect vehicle for the lobster – it resembles Texas Toast, crunchy on the surface, soft in the middle, with a buttery flavor that reflects the decadence of the lobster meat itself. The nearby park (if you’re in Dumbo) might not be the Maine coast, but it’s as good a spot as Brooklyn has to chow down on a heap of seafood.
I think I’ve been a bit rehabilitated by this lobster roll – I get it now. This isn’t a sandwich full of zip, zing or spice. It doesn’t need to be. This is a sandwich that frames one superstar, high-quality ingredient, supporting it with fantastic bread and a slight bit of contrasting crunch. I’m curious though, for an expert opinion – does this Brooklyn/Maine hybrid roll measure up?
A relatively simple recipe with top-notch ingredients, prepared with care (and personally escorted here from Maine) make for lowish strategy and very high execution:
Giving kind of a come-hither gesture:
Minimal mayo, nicely chopped scallions:
(Photos courtesy of Ian Westcott. I was too busy drooling.)
2 Comments
Mmmmm. I usually eat the straight-buttered-lobster-on-a-bun style roll, but these look delicious!
Yes. That’s a looker!
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